Before mastering the skills of coat making demonstrated in these videos the novice or apprentice must first master the needle & thimble. No tailor worth their salt sews without a thimble, indeed it is a true sign of a novice when asked on which digit the thimble is worn, common response “the thumb”.
The thimble is worn on the middle finger and is used in harmony with the needle clasped between thumb and forefinger. As the needle enters the cloth the thimble follows close behind driving the needle through. The little finger hooks the thread and prevents it from slipping out of the eye. A twist of the hand or flick of the wrist sets the tension in each stitch, consistencely.
Rory Duffy is an award-winning bespoke tailor based in New York City.