Commissioning a bespoke suit is a luxury experience. Each suit is unique to the client, created over sixty hours of handcraft tailoring.
From the initial consultation stage through to completion, Rory Duffy ensures that the process is enjoyable and insists upon delivering exceptional suits that fully satisfy the client’s expectations.
For both the tailor and client, the first meeting is of huge importance. Together they discuss what styles and details would complement the client’s needs and wishes. Selecting cloth from a range of luxurious samples from the finest British and Italian mills.
At this initial stage, detailed measurements are taken, posture and shoulder slopes are noted, and a paper pattern is drafted. The client’s pattern is unique and is updated after each fitting to maintain a consistently fitting garment.
Every suit is hand cut, the paper pattern is laid on the cloth and chalked around. The cutter leaves extra cloth as inlays to allow the suit to be “let out” in the future should the client’s physique change.
Cloth and lining are only two of the trimmings used to make a handcraft suit. Natural wool canvas, hair cloth, cotton and linen are used in the construction and preserve the garment’s shape.
A handcraft suit can require up to three fittings for the first suit.
A handmade wool canvas is stitched together and basted to the foreparts of the jacket. The pockets are sewn in, and the back, sleeves and collar are basted in place. The “try-on” is fitted to the client and then completely disassembled and re-cut according to the alteration notes.
The client will gain a much clearer vision of how his final suit will look. The main construction work is complete. Previous amendments are refined, giving the suit an exceptional fit.
Certain alterations can still be made – and indeed a further fitting may be required – before the conclusion of the creative process.
Once the final alterations are made, a tailoress hand sews the lining, edges and buttonholes, finishing the suit inside and out.
After the finishing process the suit is pressed and hung to dry. Real horn buttons are sewn and the suit is checked for flaws. The suit is hand-delivered to the client and worn once more for the final seal of approval.
Rory Duffy is an award-winning bespoke tailor based in New York City.